Mexico City’s Art Deco – Amazing Colonia Condesa

IMG_1836-Edit-60070

Clock Tower – Parque Mexico

 

Colonia Condesa is a neighborhood like no other, roughly 275 Art Deco buildings in a few square miles. (For the purposes of this post I’m including Colonia Roma and the northern tip of Colonia Escandon).

Art Deco construction in Condesa began in 1927 and reached a peak in 1931. So this is early Art Deco and with it’s old trees and parks, Condesa seems European in feel and appearance–a cross between Shanghai’s French Concession and the Bronx’ Grand Concourse–with unique Mexican details. How’s that for a mix?

 

IMG_1498-Edit-Edit-Edit-60070

Roof garden, Avenida Amsterdam #285, Colonia Condesa

 

In recent years. Condesa has become a sort of Mexican SoHo, home to a mostly young crowd. Ironically, survival of the area’s historic architecture has to do in part with its abandonment. In the 1970s, Condesa residents started moving to newer, more upscale areas like Polanco. On top of this exodus came the massive earthquake of 1985.

Condesa survived remarkably well but nearby Roma was wrecked and the effects spilled over into Condesa. More people left. And with the area considered undesirable, there was no incentive to “modernize” things. You know the rest of the story. Low rents attracted artists and students and gradually things picked up.

 

IMG_1547-Edit-Edit-Edit-60070

Edificio Tehuacan, Avenida Mexico #188, Colonia Condesa (Jose Ma. Buen Rostro, 1931)

 

IMG_1549-Edit-Edit-Edit-Edit-Edit-60070

Detail, Edificio Tehuacan

 

At the heart of Condesa is Parque Mexico, with Art Deco buildings fanning out in all directions. While the area isn’t that large, there is so much Art Deco that it isn’t practical to see it all unless, like me, you just have to. But we’re talking about several days worth of walking. 

Parque Mexico occupies land that was once a race track. The park is surrounded by two “loops”. The inner loop, at edge of the park is Aveneda Mexico. The outer loop is Avenida Amsterdam. Both streets are rich in Art Deco apartment buildings, from adorable to spectacular. The circular streets are a mixed blessing; keep going and you’ll eventually get back to where you started. On the other hand, it’s easy to lose track of your location in a neighborhood so full of Deco distractions.

IMG_1533-Edit-Edit-2-60070

Fountain – Parque Mexico

 

At a minimum, you’ll want to see everything on Avenidas Mexico and Amsterdam, east of the park. Most of the streets that bisect Mexico and Amsterdam are great as well. If you have more time, I’d head further east towards Colonia Roma, crossing Av. Insurgentes. Insurgentes is not a beautiful street but if you turn north on it you’ll pass some large streamline buildings before reaching the exceptional “Aztec Deco” Edificio Piccadilly at #309.

 

IMG_1417-Edit-Edit-Edit-Edit-Edit-60070

Even in the smog, Edificio Picadilly is a standout. Avenida Insurgentes #309

 

IMG_1420_1_2-HDR-Edit-2-Edit-60070

Detail, Edificio Picadilly. Truly indigenous Art Deco.

 

Or, instead of turning north, you can continue east on a street like Campeche which has a string of small Deco buildings including some commercial ones. Of course, there’s lots more. Here is Edificio Anahuac at Queretaro #109.

IMG_1776-Edit-Edit-Edit-Edit-Edit-Edit-60070

Entrance, Edificio Anhuac, Aveneda Queretaro #109, Colonia Roma (Francisco Serrano, 1935)

 

Red Door-in progress-Edit-2-Edit-Edit-60070

Apartment door, Edificio Anahuac

 

IR House-MexCity-Edit-60070

Art Deco house (uncommon, even here) Avenida Queretaro, Colonia Roma

 

IMG_1716-Edit-Edit-Edit-Edit-Edit-60070

Gate, Colonia Roma (location unrecorded)

 

IMG_1341-Edit-Edit-Edit-Edit-Edit-60070

Not sure I’d call this Art Deco but it’s my blog so I get to include it.

 

IMG_1556-60070

Detail, Avenida Mexico #171, Condesa

 

Mex City door-FINAL-2-Edit-2-Edit-Edit-60070

Avenida Cuauhtemoc #59, Colonia Roma

 

IMG_1597_HDR-Edit-Edit-60070

Chilpancingo #8 (Juan Segura, 1930) Condesa. There is another, larger use of this delightful design in the Edificios Gemelos apartment complex at the corner of Avenidas Revolucion and Marti. 

 

–And what you see here is just a sample.

 

This entry was posted in Art Deco Architecture, Mexico City Art Deco and tagged , , . Bookmark the permalink.

3 Responses to Mexico City’s Art Deco – Amazing Colonia Condesa

  1. Jorge says:

    Great post! I found it while googling “Condesa, Roma, Art Deco” as I once heard these two neighborhoods hold the largest collection of Art Deco buildings in the world. Just a minor misspelling: “aveneda(s)” should be “avenida(s)”.

    • Randy Juster says:

      Thanks, Jorge! I found three different misspellings of Avenida. I think they are all corrected now. I wouldn’t say the two neighborhoods have the largest collection of Art Deco buildings in the world (that would be New York, London or Los Angeles) but there are roughly 200 in an area you can walk through in a single day, which is pretty amazing.

  2. Adquirir un departamento en la colonia condesa sera satisfactorio por su popularidad en parques y plazas comerciales de calidad popular.

Leave a Reply to Jorge Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *